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Paprikásh
Restaurant Chicago, IL |
Dining just after the lunch hour, I missed the hustle and bustle of the business lunchers. Only three of the 20 or so tables were occupied, with a few men at the bar. The atmosphere was nice, bright and clean, with white cloth on the tables. A cimbalom (Hungarian hammer dulcimer) and cello were set in the corner, and I could imagine the fine sounds weekend diners will enjoy. Although the restaurant is along Northwest Highway, the traffic could not be heard. Plenty of parking distinguishes it from the one on Diversey, and the related neighborhood is safer. I had csirke paprikash (chicken paprikash) with a bowl of gulyas (goulash). The paprikash portion was lunch-sized, with enough to satisfy. It needed more spice, maybe more onion, but the tabletop paprika helped me out. For those new to Hungarian food, chicken paprikash has chunks of skinless chicken about the same size as nuggets found in various Chinese fast food dishes, covered with a paprika and onion sour cream sauce. It is a dish that could work easily in a mall food court, along side bourbon chicken or General Tso's chicken. The gulyas was not eventful, but tasty. It was more of a hearty vegetable beef soup than a traditional gulyas. I liked that it had ample potatoes and carrots pieces, and avoided the overcooked vegetable tendency of other lunch places. Some of the menu seemed out of place in a Hungarian restaurant, like the roasted pork sandwich, the Philly steak sandwich, a tuna sandwich, a hamburger (they serve three little hamburgers, perhaps an homage to White Castle? I hope not!) and a reuben. These might appeal to the less adventurous diner and could be a sign that the suburban neighborhood market still requires some more American dishes. My waiter was attentive, but new to Hungarian cuisine, and unable to pronounce the names of the dishes properly. I came for lunch, not to experience Hungary, so I did not mind. He promised to learn them, so I left hopeful his customers in a few weeks might have a better connection than I did. He served my meal quickly, was friendly and interested in my reactions. The ambiance was standard American. The music when I sat down was the Monkees' "Daydream Believer", and not especially Eastern European. The staff must have read my mind, and soon changed the music to a gypsy CD. I have no doubt that I will eat here again, and think you should too. It brings another place for Hungarians (in addition to Hillside's Epicurean Hungarian Restaurant) to gather and enjoy the meals they grew up with, and maybe help Chicagoans fall in love with these tastes too. I
fully recommend "Paprikash Restaurant. |
